Hubert de Givenchy
The Last Great Couturier
Hubert Givenchy was born in Beauvais, France in 1927. His father died young and he was raised by his grandfather, a director of the prestigious Gobelins tapestry factory. He may have inherited his artistic talent from his grandfather and great-grandfather, a set designer. The young boy who loved to draw decided to become a fashion designer after being inspired by a fashion show that he watched at the World's Fair in Paris at ten years old.
Although Givenchy’s wealthy family wanted him to study law, his heart was set on fashion design. The ambitious young man left Beauvais for Paris, the centre of the fashion world, at the tender age of seventeen. He studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris and worked for the designers, Jacques Fath and Robert Piguet. He became the unconventional dress-designer, Schiaparelli’s assistant and eventually directed her Place Vendome store Here he designed separates.
. The House of Givenchy
Schiaparelli famously berated the young Givenchy when he left, telling him that he would go bankrupt. She was wrong; the ‘enfant terrible’ opened his fashion house, The House of Givenchy, at only 25 in 1952. His first collection caused a sensation. He had used raw cotton (this was previously only used for fittings.) He also featured white cotton shirting, interchangeable separates, and the sack dress, a major innovation.
Givenchy’s muse was the popular Parisian model, Bettina Graziani. His ‘Bettina’ blouse with its puffed sleeves is still considered a classic. Vintage 'Bettina' blouses are very collectable.
Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn
The couturier dressed such famous women as Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Onassis and the Duchess of Windsor during the course of his career. His professional relationship with Audrey Hepburn especially boosted his career. Givenchy met Audrey Hepburn when she was searching for a designer for her film, Sabrina. He was impressed with her good taste and she loved his designs, especially the Parisian black dress which Sabrina wore when she came home from Paris.
Givenchy and the gamine movie-star became good friends and Audrey Hepburn often wore his chic designs. Givenchy also created a perfume for Audrey called L'Interdit, which means 'forbidden'. The friendship lasted until Audrey Hepburn died.
Givenchy and Jackie O
When John F. Kennedy died, Jackie O dressed her whole family in clothes by Givenchy at his funeral. She commissioned a dress by him from Paris for herself.
Givenchy Retires
The sixties were a difficult decade for couturiers because of the changing economic times and because people were starting to favour casual clothes more. Givenchy branched out into many other products besides clothes, such as jewelry and sunglasses. He even designed porcelain for Limoges. Givenchy eventually retired in 1988 and sold the business to LVMH but he remained the director of the business until 1995.
The chief designer of the fashion house is now Ricardo Tisci who continues to maintain its elegance and style in his designs.
Sources
Audrey Hepburn
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